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It's harvest time

Friday, September 29, 2006

By Brandi Ehlers

The fall harvest has begun in Amador County. These grapes are being harvested for Sobon Estate and Shenandoah Vineyards, both in the Shenandoah Valley. The outlook is good for many wineries this year even with the 12 days of extreme heat and high yield from last year.
Photo by: Brandi Ehlers
Mace Meadows Golf & Country Club
Even with high yields from last year and the extreme heat in July, grapes in Amador County seem to be doing just fine. The wine industry brings in more than $13 million annually to the county.

High yields throughout California from last year should mean that this year's crop should be much smaller. But according to Stan Hock of Words on Wine - an Internet site devoted to the wine industry - this is not necessarily the case. "(The grape production is) down from last year, which was a record crop, but of average size versus historical norms. Vines tend naturally to correct themselves after a big crop - i.e., they set less fruit the following year - but substantial winter and early spring rains this year reduced the correction," Hock said.

Even with the 12 consecutive days of 100 degree-plus temperatures, only 5 percent of the grapes in Amador County were affected. Most of the sun damage was to the younger vines without established canopies and deep roots, according to the Amador Vintners September newsletter.

Still, most are optimistic about the quality of the grapes because of the moderate temperatures prevailing over the past month which have resulted in slow, even ripening of the grapes, according to the Amador Vintners.

"The harvest is going very well due to the ideal weather we've enjoyed over the past few months, which has allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, the key to developing balanced, concentrated flavors," Hock said.

For Sobon Estates and Shenandoah Vineyards, things are looking good. "Harvest is going kind of slow but good," said Paul Sobon, owner and winemaker for both Sobon Estates and Shenandoah Vineyards. "For us the crops look to be a little more than last year and the quality looks really good."

Sobon attributes that to the ideal weather. "We have had a cool summer, other than the 12 days of extreme heat," he said. "The growing conditions have been great with the rains stopping in May and the warm fall so far. It is good for the grapes because the longer they hang in the sun, the better the quality."

Sobon began harvesting whites after Labor Day and Wednesday was the first day they started picking Zinfandel. This year they hope to bring in 500 tons of grapes total, a little more than last year, according to Hank Beckmeyer, an assistant winemaker for Sobon Estates and Shenandoah Vineyards. Overall this year's harvest is looking better than normal, according to Sobon, who hoped to be finished harvesting by the end of October.

Milan Matulich, winemaker for Dobra Zemlja, said the winery had just barely begun its harvest, but that is normal. Matulich is looking forward to a yield that is normal to slightly above average. "It is a beautiful harvest," he said. "The grapes are looking really good."

The harvest is looking a little different for Karly Winery. "It has been the weirdest harvest I have ever seen," said Buck Cobb, owner of Karly Winery. "I had white grapes go from under ripe to over ripe in a week and the red grapes are still on the vine because they will not ripen. This harvest the proof will be in the bottling."

In his almost 30 years of harvesting he said that no two years have ever been the same. "In this business I always learn something new and have to adapt to the changes," he said. However this year's crop yield is average to above average for Karly.

With two-thirds of the harvest finished, Cobb is hopeful that it will work itself out in the end. "It will be a surprise whatever happens," Cobb said.


Brandi Ehlers


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